Nobody can think less of dress in general than I do.
Do you remember when Mrs Weston said this in Emma? We all knew she didn't mean it of course, but was rather fixated on complimenting others, in order to receive many compliments in return. There is nothing wrong with being concerned about our dress and how we present ourselves to the world. Being fixated on it, however, is another thing altogether. I believe how we choose to dress (yes, this is definitely an area of our lives where our choices can dictate how well we live) can have significant impacts on how we feel about ourselves, how we view the world (and ourselves), how others view us, and how we actually want to live. If, like me, you want to live well, then let's explore the classics for some tips on how to dress well, find our personal style, and ultimately live better.
I think if there is anything that the classics can teach us about a personal style, it is that less is more. So many of the great ladies (and men) of classic literature had what today would be called a capsule wardrobe. Over the past two years we have all had a lot more time to discern certain things about ourselves. I found that a capsule wardrobe does not suit me, but a minimal, more streamlined one does. I have discovered that dresses and skirts are the most comfortable thing for me to wear, yet there is something worthwhile in having a pair of good-fitting jeans. The time spent at home has also made clear to me what my values are, how I want to live my life and what my ideal future would look like. How is this relevant, you might ask, in a post about style? Let me explain. I believe that your personal style must reflect these things: your values, your taste, your lifestyle, and your budget. Let's look at each of these points in more detail.
Your Values
The Greek philosopher Epictetus (50-135 AD) stated: “Know, first, who you are, and then adorn yourself accordingly." One of the simplest ways to know yourself, is to know and understand what you value.
I always think of Meg March and her desire to be dolled up by the Moffats in Little Women.
They laced her into a sky-blue dress, which was so tight she could hardly breathe and so low in the neck that modest Meg blushed at herself in the mirror. A set of silver filagree was added, bracelets, necklace, brooch, and even earrings, for Hortense tied them on with a bit of pink silk which did not show. A cluster of tea-rose buds at the bosom, and a ruche, reconciled Meg to the display of her pretty, white shoulders, and a pair of high-heeled silk boots satisfied the last wish of her heart. A lace handkerchief, a plumy fan, and a bouquet in a shoulder holder finished her off, and Miss Belle surveyed her with the satisfaction of a little girl with a newly dressed doll.
This backfires so disastrously because by doing so, Meg is actually acting in contradiction to her and her family's values. It's important to know what you value when choosing clothes to keep in your wardrobe and which clothes to bring into it. Here are some things I value and keep in mind when shopping or purging:
* natural fibres - this is a big one for me. I have seen too many documentaries on polyester clothing filling up giant piles of landfills, and am so scared by this! I try and buy clothes in cotton, linen, wool, and silk. Sometimes I buy viscose but I don't know how "natural" that really is. But I try my best.
* looking presentable always - I got this one from the wonderful Jennifer L. Scott, author of the Madame Chic books and Youtuber and blogger at Daily Connoisseur. She has so many wonderful tips and tricks on how to look presentable everyday. Because I teach part-time and am at home the other days, I like to have a wardrobe that works for me always. Because I like to look professional (business-casual at least), that means my "off days" clothes are quite presentable too. I don't own daggy, ill-fitting, casual clothes for non-work days. I feel better when I wear the nice dresses, skirts and tops everyday, regardless of if I go into work or not.
* shopping ethically - this is important to me and I will spend time searching for good clothing, second-hand through ebay or at Op shops (thrift shops). Poshmark is taking off here in Australia also, but I haven't used that site yet. I know the brands that I like, and what size I am in those brands, so shop for those pieces second-hand. I also use the Oxfam Naughty and Nice list as a guide, which works for Australian brands. I am in a privileged position to shop ethically and strive to do so.
* modesty - this is a very subjective term. For me, dressing modestly means dressing appropriately for my age (early 40s) and stage (mother, wife, teacher) in life. I feel more comfortable wearing knee-length skirts or dresses and tops that cover my shoulders. I also don't wear leggings as pants, but will wear them under skirts and dresses for extra warmth. I do wear trousers and jeans, and love a good pair of jeans and boots in winter time.
* simplicity - finally, I value simplicity. I don't want to have to think too long and hard about what I'm going to wear everyday (I've spent too many mornings thinking "What am I going to wear" whilst staring into a full wardrobe). I don't have a capsule wardrobe or a minimalist wardrobe but after many years I have discarded enough clothing that now I only keep what I actually wear (and even this goes through the discernment process regularly) and my clothing is limited by the space that I have. I don't like my clothes to be jammed in my wardrobe so that means I have less and my clothes hang happily with space around them (or with room to breathe whilst folded on shelves and in drawers).
What do you value? How can you reflect that in the clothes that you buy and wear?
Your Taste
Once you know what you value, I think you will find that your tastes - your true tastes about clothing - become clear. If you are at a loss though, about what you like, think to some celebrities, movie characters or online images that appeal to you. I have always loved the costumes of Juliette Binoche's character Vianne Rocher in the movie, Chocolat. She worked hard everyday to set up her chocolaterie, yet she never wore dirty, holey or ugly clothing. I love the classic look of a midi skirt and shirt tucked in and in the warmer months wear it quite often. Now, I know that this is a movie but there is nothing wrong with being inspired by the magical worlds that movies create. But if this is outside your comfort zone, then perhaps take one or two elements and make them your own. Remember, being vintage (or 'classic') means that you never go out of style! This is so much easier than trying to keep up with trends or changing fashions. And a lot easier on the budget too! For me, classic midi skirts in blue, navy, black, floral or green can always be worn and updated with t-shirts, blouses, cardigans or soft cashmere sweaters in winter. They look wonderful with tall boots and tights in winter (another favourite look of mine) but also lovely with ballet flats, heeled sandals, flat sandals or even white sand shoes for a very casual look. I wear all these looks and love them! This is also a lovely style for all ages and body shapes.Keep in mind, though, the other aspects discussed here to make sure that your tastes don't end up ruling your wardrobe. They must align with your values, your lifestyle and your budget. You can't have one without the other!
Your Lifestyle
What do you do in your days? Do you work at home or outside the home? Do you require a type of uniform or dress code in your work or are you free to dress however you like? When we look back at the classics there is a simplicity to what people wore. Not necessarily in their actual clothing (bustles and crinolines do not sound all that simple), but in what they owned. Depending on their wealth, the amount would change, but generally people had their everyday clothing and their Sunday best. We see this time and again, and the Little House on The Prairie books are the ones that come to mind foremost.
"Ma hurried Laura and May with their breakfast and she washed the dishes quickly. They put on their stockings and shoes while she made the beds. Then she helped them put on their best dresses - Mary's china-blue calico and Laura's dark red calico."
However, it has become apparent that these days the common "everyday" clothing has become a uniform of athleisure wear - leggings, t-shirts, jumpers or sports jackets - for both men and women. I suppose if this fits your lifestyle and you are happy wearing this, then continue to do so. But if you are searching for a more personal, classic style, consider an everyday outfit that might be a bit more elevated: a pretty top and an a-line skirt; a simple, well-fitting dress; jeans and a nice blouse. If you aren't exercising as part of your everyday life, then perhaps you don't need to wear exercise clothing everyday. And certainly in the classics, the "everyday" clothes were a lot more elevated than the clothes we see people wearing on a daily basis today. Why is this? Why, with the myriad of nice, affordable clothing at our fingertips do people continue to dress down everyday? I'm genuinely curious. Let me know if you have any theories in the comments below.
As I consider what I want my future to look like, what the life I want to live entails, having a streamlined wardrobe is important. If I want to clean the house, then my clothing should be breathable and easy to move in. But I don't want to have to get changed out of "cleaning" clothes if I then need to pop to the shops or meet a friend for lunch. An apron also works wonders at protecting clothing whilst cooking and cleaning and saves numerous outfit changes throughout the day (this is definitely something I want to avoid). Plus, it's very classic and there are so many cute options available today. Remember the article on Victor Gilbert's artwork? Think of how women used to dress, and yet still managed to tend to their homes and gardens, go to work, do the shopping, look after children and more. Look to the classics for everyday wear that goes above and beyond tracksuits or leggings. This doesn't necessarily mean you must wear dresses or skirts everyday. Nice pants or jeans can be just as elevated and easy to move around in. My grandmothers, both of whom lived into their nineties, wore nice pants, blouses and a knit jumper or cardigan on cooler days, every single day. It didn't matter if they were going out or expected visitors. They got dressed in clean, presentable clothes everyday. There are so many options nowadays to suit your lifestyle and if this is important to you, (and I've received a number of emails from readers that leads me to think that it is important), then it is absolutely worth the time and effort to find out what works for you on a daily basis. You're worth it!
Your Budget
Do you have a budget? Is there a specific amount that you allocate each month or each season on how much you are going to spend on clothing? If shopping is a problem for you and you tend to have more than you can wear, then consider a budget to cap your spending. And don't go outside it! Again, remember our dear Meg March from Little Women.
A few days before she had done a dreadful thing, and it weighed upon her conscience. Sallie had been buying silks, and Meg longed for a new one, just a handsome light one for parties, her black silk was so common, and thin things for evening wear were only proper for girls. Aunt March usually gave the sisters a present of twenty-five dollars apiece at New Year’s. That was only a month to wait, and here was a lovely violet silk going at a bargain, and she had the money, if she only dared to take it. John always said what was his was hers, but would he think it right to spend not only the prospective five-and-twenty, but another five-and-twenty out of the household fund? That was the question.
As we discussed in the last point, you are worth the time and investment in nice clothes but if there is a limit to what you can spend then the best advice can only be "quality over quantity." Having a few, quality pieces of clothing that can be worn in a variety of ways is always better than having hundreds of cheap pieces that never see the light of day. This goes back again to what we talked about earlier: in the classics we know that people wore the same, or very similar, clothing everyday but kept something nice for special occasions. It is absolutely counter-cultural to think that we can wear the same outfit twice in a week, or even in a fortnight, but you can! You may be surprised that actually no one notices! Many men have this habit down pat. My husband, for example, wears the same tan pants to work in summer everyday with a different shirt. In winter he switches the tan pants out to navy ones, and wears long sleeves shirts and jumpers in winter. That's it. Two pairs of pants! And no one has ever commented, believe it or not!
I think we have covered a lot of information in this classic style post! So, where to begin? The first step should be to think about the four points that we have discussed here today. If you like to journal, make a few notes so that you can refer back to them as you go. There are so many techniques out there about finding your true style, and I have studied many of them! Between this research and what I have taken from the classics, I think these four points are a perfect guide to finding your own classic style. Once you have reflected on these, you may need to discard or cull your wardrobe to make it more manageable and to truly reflect your values, your taste, your lifestyle and your budget. Definitely do this before shopping! Don't bring anything else into your wardrobe unless you are absolutely sure that it fits into these four categories.
Good luck! I hope that this introduction to finding your classic style has been helpful and if you have any comments or suggestions for others, please share them in the comments below.
Have a wonderful day, and stay classic, my friends!
Kirsty x
Lovely observations! I often said that a friend was guilty in the past of buying for the life she wanted rather than the one she had. She often bought evening clothing when she never went out of an evening. There is no harm in looking well dressed but I do believe we must be terribly conscious of what our days look like. My husband and I often enjoy older movies and we remark often on how well dressed people were for grocery shopping or going to the airport. A world away from pajama pants and t-shirts...
ReplyDeleteI absolutely agree Terri! We can gleam so much inspiration from those old movies, and if you watch closely I bet they don't actually have that many different outfits! Thanks for stopping by, your contributions here are always spot on and very welcome!
DeleteKirsty